SCHINOUSSA
About Schinoussa
Schinoussa is a tiny, charming and quiet Small Cyclades island just to the south east of Naxos. It is part of the Small Cyclades group nestled between Iraklia and Kato Koufonisia and offers visitors an authentic Cycladic experience with enough sandy beaches and eating options to keep visitors happy.
The feeling is typical of the Small Cyclades, one of tranquility and remoteness – and perhaps a throwback to island experience of 20 years ago. It’s an island where the things to do are pretty simple – swim, walk, relax, eat, drink. Not a bad combination at all. It’s probably any island suited to singles and couples looking for peace rather than families and don’t put Schinoussa on your list if you’re looking for nightlife or a massive list of things to see.
A key aspect to mention are the people on Schinoussa – ‘friendly’ and ‘helpful’ are terms you’ll hear all the time. It all helps make a memorable experience.
Schinoussa 2024 update
Not too much has changed in Schinoussa for season 2024 but there are a few:
Beeraki has closed and been replaced with a boutique.
The Plateia gyros at the main square has been replaced with a new taverna, Zefiros offering a broader menu of all your grill favourites.
The 2024 Schinoussa Fava Festival will take place on the last weekend of June 2024 (29th/30th). The location was not confirmed at time of writing but it would not be hard to find if you are there. It was not a great growing season apparently with rain not coming at the end but there should be enough for the festival at least.
There is some building work going on with a new cafe (Stavlos?) going in next to Sohoros – the finish was given (optimistically?) as July but it will have a nice view down to Tsigouri once finished.
And if you see pictures of the famous and much photographed Xara cafe without its sign, dont worry – it s being refreshed and will be back in place soon.
Schinoussa best places to stay
The first choice you have to make is where you want to be on the island. It’s not large but if you want to go without a car and you still like to be able to walk to tavernas and cafes then somewhere near the Chora is the best choice. If you are planning on having transport then there are several options away from the Chora.
Schinoussa Chora places to stay
Archipelagos Boutique Hotel
Archipelagos is a nicely done stone construction with modern fittings inside. It’s set slightly out of the Chora but easily walkable and overlooks Tsigouri Beach. Panos looks after things well and there’s a pool and decent breakfast too. Definitely one to look at if it’s available for your visiting time.
Theasis Luxury Suites
Theasis is actually on the same road out of the Chora as Archipelagos but a little closer to the Chora. Nikitas is your host here and his enthusiasm and desire to make your stay a great one really shines through. His family are all involved too. No pool here but the rooms are large with balconies to look out over the water.
Africanis Suites
Another good option very close to all the Schinoussa Chora attractions. Rooms are spacious and renovated and Africanis will (like most) collect you from the port. The views from Africanis are great – you can see Amorgos on a good day.
Sohoros Luxury Suites Schinoussa
A relatively new option near the Chora, located between the Chora and Tsigouri Beach. There’s a pool on site too and you’re close to everything in the Chora.
Hotel Iliovasilema Schinoussa
A good choice if you’re looking for a bit of value in the Chora. Slightly older style but still many rooms have great views and t’s well located for Chora exploring.
Schinoza Luxury Suites
Slightly out of the Chora but not far. Another newish development with many rooms having private pools and decoration done in the Cycladic minimalist style.
Other Schinoussa places to stay
Africanis Bungalows Mersaria
Obviously linked to the Chora Africanis and looked after by the same friendly people, the Africanis Bungalows are perfect if you like real peace and quiet. The rooms are very comfortable with jacuzzi on the terrace and views across to Amorgos and Koufonisia. Chora is walkable but there will always be options for lifts to make it easier.
Schinoussa Guesthouse Livadi Beach
Perfect for a stay close to the lovely Livadi Beach. The apartments are comfortable and well equipped. If you want to go to the Chora, it’s a 10-15 minute walk (easier coming back :-)).
Schinoussa Things to do
Best Schinoussa Beaches
It’s only small but Schinoussa beaches are pretty sandy with many sandy beaches. The good news is that they are generally pretty quiet outside the peak August visitor season and they’re readily accessible.
Tsigouri Beach
Tsigouri is the closest beach to Chora but it’s a lovely long sandy beach so doesn’t gey overcrowded. No organisation but a few trees for shade – maybe consider bringing your own umbrella.
Livadi Beach
Probably my favourite of Schinoussa beaches. Another one that’s easy to get to from Chora and it’s another long sandy one with some shade and sheltered from northerlies. The Livadi cafe/restaurant behind the beach has a nice terrace for a break from the sun.
Lioliou Beach
Another shallow sandy Schinoussa beach with beautiful clear waters towards the south east of the island. Only a little shade again so bring your own if you can. There is a tavern which opens from lunchtime.
Alygaria Kampos
A mixed pebble/sandy beach with no other facilities – but there are caves and underwater sites to explore.
Almyros Beach
A sandy and shallow beach but exposed and so if there is any wind around, this beach will catch it.
Fikio Beach
A white sandy beach , again exposed and prone to wind impact. Access is also not as easy as some other beaches but doable by scooter.
Psili Ammos
A fairly wild white sand beach close to Mesaria with only a couple of trees for shade. A popular one for taxis to drop off and pick up.
Schinoussa restaurants – more modern style
Deli Bar/Restaurant
They’ll look after you all day here if you want – breakfast/drinks are served downstairs and then dinner upstairs – all with an amazing view out to sea from the highest point of the Chora. If you’re a craft beer fan, make sure you check the range of Greek craft beers. I tried but I couldn’t get to them all!
Loza Pizza
You’ll find Loza at the eastern end of the main Chora street and you’ll find Greek dishes as well as the core pizza offerings. Loza will also do a good espresso if you’re missing your usual coffee fix.
Kira Pothiti
Greek dishes but done in a more modern style, served on a nice terrace (or in the side alley if they’re busy). Not the cheapest but worth a try.
Schinoussa restaurants – more traditional
Okto Adelphia
Okto is a small traditional taverna in the Chora serving up big Greek portions at very reasonable prices. Local fava is a must try along with the lamb.
Meltemi
A family run traditional taverna with a good setting. Good for stuffed tomatoes, chicken souvlaki etc. Also good value with prices better than elsewhere on Schinoussa.
To Petrino
A traditional taverna in Mesaria with a good view as you enjoy your food. Meats and vegetables generally good here.
Best Schinoussa bars
Deli is a friendly place to have a drink in the Chora with an excellent range of Greek craft beers.
Xara is probably the most photographed shop in Schinoussa and is open all day for drinks and snacks.
Beeraki offers drinks and snacks in the Chora.
How long to stay on Schinoussa
Its always hard to answer this question – it really depends a lot on what you are looking for. But you could probably visit most of the beaches and get a good feel for the island in 3/4 nights – of course by then you might feel you like to stay longer – you can always come back.
Island Hopping from Schinoussa
Schinoussa works most obviously with other Small Cyclades islands like Irakilia and Koufonisia as well as Naxos, the nearest major hub. The good thing about this collection is that your ferry costs will be low compared with other island hopping itineraries and the journies are short, meaning less time spend on a boat.
If you want to look a little further afield then islands that are well connected with Naxos will be achievable, such as Paros and Milos.
The changing of Schinoussa
Schinoussa is changing like many of the islands so go soon if you want to see it relatively undeveloped. There is concern amongst the locals about the influence and landholdings of one wealthy individual. There is also some concern about access to the beaches of Agios Pteros and Vasilis – from land it is difficult , although from the sea people are able to enjoy them.
Schinoussa hit the headlines earlier when the Mersini tavern at the port (favoured by the boat visitors and wedding parties) reportedly changed hands for 3.5m Euros and plans were made to bring in a chef from Athens to change the style of the place. Time will tell if this is another step on teh way to changing the nature of the island.
